Day 3 - Kaunata to Dvarci

41km (100km) - 9 hours 5 minutes - weather warm to hot

A long day. What went wrong? It was the day for climbing Liepukalns, Latgale's highest point - 289m. Ziedonis has developed knee problems; he took the shorter route, around the lake to tonight's accommodation.
Things started well. Both maps showed a clear track to the top. The roads looked minor but that is not much indication of what the reality will be. The minor track deteriorated rapidly. It had not been driven on for years. The undergrowth was at times head high, though following the track was not difficult.

Everything seemed to marry up. I found what I thought was the track to the summit. I walked too far and started climbing what I thought was Liepukalns. Near the top I could see another peak closeby. I thought I must have climbed the slightly lower twin peak so I retraced my steps and climbed what must have been Liepukalns.
On the approaches to both summits there was extensive tree felling (to open up the view?) and at the point where the last climb up to Liepukalns ought to have been, there was a cut-off stick with the top few cm painted red. I was pretty satisfied that I had got both peaks.
I had wasted a bit of time but was going well and the maps showed it was only a few hundred metres to the road to Dubuli.
A couple of hours later, I was no further advanced. I had bush-bashed down countless tracks without success. So I went back the way I had come

and about 9km later I came across a sign - Liepukalns 2.7km pointing in the direction I had hoped to emerge from. I almost went the 2.7km to see where I had gone wrong.

At Dubuli, I desparately needed water and asked for directions. Vita left her Mum and showed me where it was.
We chatted as we walked and what she said made me think that Liepukalns should not have been hard to find, particularly from the direction of Dubuli. Did I climb Latgale's highest and Latvia's 3rd highest peak? I don't know and am past caring.
The 17km home took about 3 hours. There was a lot of black road (bitumen) walking. The house where we are staying is designed around a tower in order to get a good view over the lake.
The design is tight so there are compromises - I have to go through Ziedonis' room to get to the bathroom and the kitchen is down two flights of stairs. I am really getting picky.
After only 3 days, I am becoming concerned at the effort we are expending compared with the food we are consuming. It is not enough and eventually performance will deteriorate. I can't keep going at this pace without more food and more time to relax.
Most other things are going well. The accommodation has worked well and is generally planned through to the end. We have had no trouble buying bottled water. My language will be adequate particularly as I travel further west. I will write about food in more detail, perhaps tomorrow.
Another journalist, from Dienas bizness, has phoned Anita and wants to walk with me for a day. Where will this end? I was on the home stretch this evening when a car stopped beside me and the driver, in English, asked me how I was going and said he had read about me. He said he had also done a long walk in Spain. Thank-you Raimonds.
Tomorrow, we walk through Rezekne. Perhaps we can eat in a restaurant and restore some calories.

Day 2 - Nirza to Kaunata

27km (59km) - 7 hours 45 minutes - weather overcast

I should not have tried a shortcut. An hour and a half of bush-bashing was the result. In shorts and without gaiters. The larger scale map showed a track going through and saving a couple of kms. The more recent map showed the track petering out. And so it did. We could have gone back a few kms. I tried to find the bridge over the creek. Instead we walked through the thickest collection of exotic weeds I have ever seen - Day of the Triffids stuff.
I checked later for ticks but seem to have avoided them. The mozzies have been particlarly fearsome today and that is one of my excuses for not having given the matter more thought - it was difficult to hang around discussing things.
We emerged near a small lake (about 250m across). There was a house close by and we spoke to couple who were sitting outside, the old man taking my map and pointing out the local sights.

We had some pleasant forest walking, the terrain getting more undulating as we approach Latgale's high country.
Plenty of old farmhouses and outbuldings, but all with more recent asbestos roofs. Many abandoned houses. Primitive subsistence farming seems to be the main activity. Animals are tethered and rarely enclosed. One of the properties had a traditional well and water-raising device.
A couple more impressive churches - both closed.



The blog is being published in a roundabout way - I type it on my mobile office and send it through to Anita, Michael in Geelong or (today) Juris in Riga. I should be able to do it from my mobile but I haven't quite got the hang of it.


It is worth recording what I am carrying. I wear a cap (with Lawrence of Arabia protection), a light thermal top, shorts, a watch, map case and compass, this mobile office (htc something) and the charger and conversion plug, thick walking socks and my Scarpa boots. I have a 35lt Salomon pack. In the top section is my passport, wallet, sunglasses and a Swiss army knife. In the outside pocket is my light rain jacket and overpants and sunscreen, insect repellant (2), toilet paper, a roll of Leukosilk and a tube of sanitising hand gel.
My toilet bag contains an electric razor and cord, toothbrush and paste, dental floss, mouthguard, shampoo/conditioner, soap, hairbrush, eyedrops, more Leukosilk, Amolin, anti-rash cream, moisturiser and nail clippers. I have my (basic) rogaining first aid kit and a packet of Amoxycillin capsules. Ziedonis has the anti- diarrhea tablets.
I am carrying a couple of tops Anita left at Nirza. My spare clothes are a light warm jacket, 3 pairs of socks, a long-sleeved Merino top and a lighter top, long pants, 2 pairs of underpants, bathers, a couple of handkerchiefs and running shorts. Also a small towel, a headlamp, a plastic cup and spoon. I carry 2 litres of water in 2 water bottles in side pockets of the pack. Food - currently I have a plastic container with mixed fruit and nuts, dried apricots and dates, a second packet of fruit and nuts, a packet of almonds, 6 instant soup packets and a packets of sugar-free lollies. Tomorrow I will also carry a cheese sandwich and a couple of bananas.
I have 10 1:50,000 maps and about 20 maps ripped out of the motoring maps book - 1:200,000 for the countryside and 1:10,000 for the larger towns. Also a copy of the planned route and an accommodation spreadsheet, and a biro. Finally, 2 novels, Peter Prince's Adam Runaway and Sadie Jones's The Outcast.
Not exactly travelling light - I would welcome suggestions about which of these essential items I could do without.

Day 1 - Border near Pasiene to Nirza

32km (32km) - 6 hours 45 minutes - weather fine

Started late at about 11am. We had been alerted that an article about me and the walk had been published in the main Latvian newspaper, Diena. Most of page 17 (of 20) and fortunately in Latvian. I haven't studied it too closely; the photo is enough. (Ed: http://www.diena.lv/lat/politics/dzive/ar-kajam-pa-latviju )
We drove to the border tower we saw last night. In fact it was a Latvian tower about 200m from the Russian border. They were constructed fairly recently as part of the EU border security.

We left Gunta and Anita and started back towards Pasiene. Today we have walked on a variety of roads - fortunately not much bitumen, but not enough small forest tracks. We are both a bit footsore having to do an extra 6km to cover yesterday.
The Pasiene Catholic church would not be out of place in a city, rather than the modest village it now is. I am sure it has seen better days. The Manor House is a very attractive curved building and is noted as an historic site. It needs work desperately or it will simply be a ruin. The inside of the church is being restored; the ceiling is now painted pink with decorative designs and pictures. The restorer is not Michael or Angelo.
At Lauderi there is an interesting wooden Orthodox church with a high tower. Unfortunately, we could not see inside.
Otherwise, we walked beside a number of lakes - the most beautiful was Lake Solosi which has 2 small forested islands, the larger only about 250m across.
Ziedonis and I chattered away in Latvian, though as the day progressed we became quieter. Tomorrow we must walk about 25km, which will be difficult.
We will have had two nights at Marina's cottage by Lake Nirza. She has been very hospitable and lit a fire for us last night. The view over the lake (to the setting sun in the west) is sensational. The next two nights also sound promising.

Day 0 - Easternmost point

Day 0 - 0kms (0kms) Around Pasiene



It was to be the first day of walking but events conspired against us. We (Ziedonis,Gunta, Anita and me) made a late start from Riga and after Rezekne hit a road reconstruction project (it is the Riga-Moscow road). There was only one lane open for about 500m followed by a brief two-way section. The single lane sections were controlled by traffic lights on a 5 minute cycle. Our patience was tested after the first 2 or 3; we endured about 40!
We arrived in Pasiene at about 4:30pm - a bit late for the 24kms we had planned. We decided to modify things and do the 10km circuit and back to Pasiene were Ziedonis had arranged accommodation through Rita, the local tourist information person, who we suspected was going to put us up herself.
We had decided that, as we wanted to visit the border area, we should obtain the appropriate permit from the border control authority. We were interviewed by an officer and presented our passports. 30 minutes later we each had a very official looking permit.
While we were waiting, Ziedonis phoned Rita. She was at a wedding in Rezekne about 75km away. A wedding on a Monday? Perhaps it was continuing from Saturday? We rearranged things and are now staying 2 nights at Nirza and tomorrow Gunta and Anita will drive us back to Pasiene to start walking. From then, I hope to remain car-free till Liepaja.
It was now about 5:30pm and we spent the next 3 hours with some fascinating sightseeing.
The border control officer had told us that near to Latvia, Russia and Belarus border, we were 'not to cross the line of sand on the path'. Near the border we lifted a barrier so that we could drive on. The road had not been repaired for years. Probably very little used.
We parked and walked down an avenue of trees to the mound that Anita described. We walked towards the Russian border. There was a 4m band of raked sand across the track. We stopped and looked at the small bridge crossing the small river which marks the boundary at this point. It really did evoke an atmosphere of mystery and menace and something from another era. About 50m away there was a similar set-up at the Belarus border.
Next stop was the 'Austras Koks' monument,
supposedly marking the easternmost point in Latvia. It is located more for convenience so that visitors don't get too close to the restricted border area. The real point is about 12km away near Pasiene where we will start walking. There are similar monuments at the other extremities in Latvia including the one we hope to visit near Liepaja in the west.
We stopped at Greblas Mountains - a ridge about 5km long and a couple of metres wide the rises about 30m above the surrounding countryside. For the first 1 or 2km there are lakes on either side. I will try and post a short video.
On the way back we found our start point for the walk - a border tower at what must be the furtherest east you can go.
We stopped about 300m before the tower and it will be fascinating to see how close we can get, though presumably it is on the Russian side.
So till tomorrow!

The route

This is the route I hope to take.

Mežaparks

Today we drive to Zaube, an hour or so out of Rīga. We will make an early start from there tomorrow morning. Anita and Gunta will come down with Ziedonis and me to see us off, and perhaps also walk part of the way.
The house at Mežaparks has been a tremendous place to stay in Riga. It has been beautifully and painstakingly renovated by Gunta and Ziedonis and has 3 levels (and a converted cellar that may one day have a sauna but presently has a bath, shower and washing machine). During the height of the song festival it accommodated Gunta and Ziedonis (and their dog Strīpa), 4 of us, Mark, 3 Mačeni from Sydney and 2 Bērziņi from Adelaide (and occasional overnighters).
The dwelling has a common wall with the adjoining place (which is a mirror image) and is on a large treed block. The house, and most of Mežaparks, was developed by German architects in the years before the First World War. Our house will celebrate its centenary in 3 years time.
Mežaparks is about 6km from central Rīga and is serviced by the no. 11 tram. We are about 400m from 2 separate stops. The trams come every 7 minutes and follow a timetable. They are old and basic, and you can buy a ticket from the driver. They have a simple ticket verification system and fearsome ticket inspectors. During the Song Festival, the whole tramways fleet must have been ferrying people to the open air stadium in the forest adjacent to the suburb.
The forest is about 2km by 3km and is generally wild forest - conifers, oak and others which I don't recognise. Apart from the stadium which holds 20,000 performers and 45,000 spectators, there are playgrounds, a disused skating rink, an open air theatre, restaurants and the zoo. It seems to be an important recreational area for Rīga and particularly at weekends it is really buzzing.
There are formal roads through the park, but also countless paths and tracks, and a disused railway. I have been using it for training and can generally find my way around. I need to keep reminding myself that the sun is always in the southern part of the sky.
One side of both the suburb and the forest borders on a huge lake. It is over 1km across, though apparently it freezes in winter and you are able to skate to the other side. In winter, the locals come by tram with their skis and use the trails in the park. There are some great photos of Mežaparks at http://mezaparks.blogspot.com/.
On the other side of Mežaparks are 3 important cemeteries - Meža kapi, Brāļu kapi and Raiņa kapi. Rainis was a much loved Latvian poet and his grave is in the cemetery named after him. Brāļu kapi is the war memorial for Latvian soldiers. It is very impressive and is dominated by a statue of Mother Latvia. Anita's uncle, Vaidelotis wrote a book about the cemetery and the sculptor, Kārlis Zāle. Latvian cemetries are always well cared for and treed and the graves do not dominate. They are more like cultivated forests. When I have been walking in the countryside, I try to detour through the local cemetery.
Mēza kapi (Forest cemetery) contains 2 plots where Anita's (Apsitis) relatives are buried. One has her paternal grandmother, Bella, and her four sons - Visvaldis and Renee (who died in childhood), Vaidelotis and Anita's father, Ziedonis. Vaidelotis had 2 sons, Didzis and Mārcis.

Didzis was the first member of the family I met in 1987. He met us at Tallinn as we came off the ferry from Stockholm. In 1989, he flew to Moscow to meet us at the airport. Didzis was then the Musical Director of the National Theatre in Riga and we enjoyed a rich cultural experience on those first few trips. Gunta was his first wife. They came to Australia in 1990 and travelled to central Australia with us. Didzis died last year and is also buried at Meža kapi. In another part of the cemetery, Anita's paternal grandfather, Jānis, and his second wife, Irene, are buried.
Vaidelotis and Anita's other cousin, Mārcis trained as architects. Mārcis' wife, Nita, and their older son, Jānis, are also architects. The younger som, Matīss, is a civil engineer. They live at Jurmala (sea-side) which is the other side of Rīga and is a very beautiful area, though threatened by inappropriate development.
Anita's mother, Velta, was an only child, so that Anita's relatives in Latvia are now basically limited to Mārcis' family and Didzis' two daughters, Annija and Adele.
By contrast, Andrējs and Viktorija and Rudīte and Andis travelled all over Latvia visiting countless relatives. I hope to spend more time with Mārcis and Nita when I finish the walk. Jānis will meet me at Zebrus Ezers late on the walk and may walk part of the way with me. We are planning to compete as a team in the rogaining championships in Estonia.
I have enjoyed my time in Rīga, particularly living, to a degree, as a local - travelling by tram, trolley-bus and train, shopping and talking Latvian. But now is the time for action. My latest calculation anticipates a total distance for the walk of 748km over 25 days. It all seems pretty daunting at the moment!

Revised route - From the start to Madona

Ziedonis has been busy over the last few days trying to arrange accommodation. There were a few problems and it has been necessary to significantly revise the route to Madona We now have accommodation for the first 8 nights. The ninth and eleventh nights will be near ski resort areas so there should be little difficulty finding a place to stay. Day 10 will finish at Esmeralda's property near Vecpiebalga. She was in Riga tonight and we have just come from dinner with her.

After we placed our order at the restaurant, a man entered, and sat alone. He ordered and received his meal and had almost finished before ours arrived. Not that the service was particularly slow for us; it was just that the Prime Minister got special attention. Then off he went with his two car police escort.

But back to our revised plan:

Start at Meikšāni where there is a marker supposedly at Latvia's easternmost point. It is not really, but has probably been chosen because it is the closest settlement near where the Latvian, Russian and Belarus borders meet. We plan to go to the equivalent marker in western Latvia at Bemāti about 20kms south of Liepāja. I am grateful to Michael of Geelong for carefully examining Google Earth to determine that Bemāti is the furthest western land in Latvia, although the end of the breakwater at Liepāja is at a similar longitude. The breakwater extends hundreds of metres into the Baltic Sea and used to contain a Russian submarine base. Apparently the breakwater is now accessible and in stormy weather is an exhilarating experience.

1st night - Pasiene (population 1,150) - 20kms (20kms)

2nd night - Nirza (on the lake) - 28kms (48kms)

3rd night - Kaunata - 34kms (82kms)

4th night - Dvarči (on Lake Rāzna), after diverting to Liepukalns (Latvia's third highest mountain at 289m) - 32kms (114kms)

5th night - Kozori (near Rezekne - population 37,600) - 32kms (146kms)

6th night - Jaunviļāni (population 2,600) - 26kms (172kms)

7th night - Barkava - 33kms (205 kms)

8th night - Madona (population 9,300) - 28kms (233 kms).

This is an extra 29kms than the original, but it cannot be helped. Hopefully we will see a fair representation of the Latgale region. I will try to post a marked map so that our route is a little clearer.

Proposed route plan

Start - Pasiene

1st night - Vecslabāda - 26km (26km) - Istras vidusskola, Veclabada

2nd night - Kaunata - 32km (58km) - Pie Rāznas, Rāznas 66, Kaunata

3rd night - Malta - 28km (86km) - Maltas 2.vidusskolas internāts, Sporta ielā 5, Malta

4th night - Preiļi - 32km (118km) - Viesnīca "Preiļi" Talsu iela 2a, Preiļi

5th night - Atašiene - 43km (161km) - "Skujiņas" viesu māja

6th night - Ļaudona - 25km (186km) - "Ļaudona", Viesu māja, Aiviekstes iela 3, Ļaudonas

7th night - Madona - 18km (204km)

8th night - Vestiena - 28km (232km)

9th night - Ineši - 28km (260km) - Esmeraldas mājas

10th night - Skujene - 27km (287km) - Andrēnkalni, slēpošanas trase, Ezerrozes

11th night - Zaube - 28km (315km) - Guntas mājas

12th night - Ledmane - 34km (349km) - Lobes krogs – „Rītarasas”

13th night - Ķegums - 22km (371km)

14th night - Zvigzde - 22km (393km)

15th night - Iecava - 34km (427km) - "Billītes"

16th night - Jelgava - 30km (457km)

17th night - Dobele - 29km (486km)

18th night - Zebrus ezers - 22km (508km) - Jāna majas

19th night - Mežvidi - 38km (546km)

20th night - Nigrande - 32km (578km) - "Ģinas", Nīgrande

21st night - Priekūle - 36km (614km)

22nd night - Nīca - 40km (654km)

23rd night (finish) - Liepāja- 26km (680km)

Note: This is only the planned route. It can be adjusted to take in places I should visit. Much of the accommodation has been sourced from the publication, Latvijas Ceļvedis, and the Internet and may be out of date. I would welcome suggestions about places to visit and places to stay.

Preparations

It is planned to start the walk on Monday 28 July 2008. We are presently staying in Riga with our friends Gunta and Ziedonis. Ziedonis intends to walk for the first 6 or 7 days of the walk until we reach Madona. This will be through the Latgale region where either Russian or the Latgale dialect is more likely to be spoken and my rudimentary Latvian language will not be of much use.It looks like I may have more company along the walk including Anita's nephew Mark.

Mark is from Melbourne and this is his first trip to Latvia. Mark and I have in recent years participated in a number of rogaines and Oxfams. Unfortunately he will not be here for the World Championships but hopes to participate next month with his second cousin Janis in the Riga (half) marathon. A photo of Anita and Mark taken on the night of the closing concert of the Song Festival is at http://www.tvnet.lv/ with Raimonds Pauls one of Latvia's most-loved composers. One of Paul's songs featured in the concert.

Mark will probably do a couple of days from Modona, including making our first ascent of Latvia's highest mountain - Gaizinkalns at 312m. I am hoping that Arnis, Janis and Jukka might also walk with me and, through Anita, a journalist has expressed interest in joining the walk. Anita did raise the possibility of using the walk as a fundraiser for a Latvian charity. On the walk across the Australian Alps we raised nearly A$14,000. This would involve a degree of publicity which I would prefer to avoid. And pressure; 700 kms will not be a walk in the park.

I have prepared the route I hope to follow. This allows 25 to 30 kms between the stopping points each night. I have tried to avoid main roads and stick to minor roads and forest tracks although this adds to the distance. On the main roads, there are two lanes (one in each direction). When a vehicle wishes to overtake, it draws up behind the vehicle in its lane, the vehicle in front moves over to the side of the bitumen and the vehicle overtakes. If there is a vehicle coming in the opposite direction (as there usually is), that vehicle anticipate what is happening and moves over to the side of the road to allow the overtaking vehicle to occupy the centre of the road. This is still, for me a very frightening manoeuvre, and it does not leave any room for stray walkers on the side of the road.

I have found (in tourist guides) references to accommodation every night. Our efforts to book the accommodation has not been very successful - we have a room for the second night, but otherwise Ziedonis has found that the listed phone numbers do not respond. Hopefully this will resolve itself. I am trying to avoid carrying tent, sleeping bag, mat etc. The more weight I carry, the less distance will be achieved each day and the increased energy needs will require me to carry more food and water. I would like to travel light if possible.

Generally the route avoids main towns and tries to include places of some natural or historical interest. I am seeking advice about the route and it will probably be adjusted to ensure that there is accommodation available and that we do not pass by a scenic attraction. In the next blog post I will include a outline of the route as presently planned. I have used a book of 1:200,000 maps (Latvijas autocelu atlants) for most of the planning and have bought 1:50,000 Latvian survey maps to confirm the route and to use on the walk.

Peter and Michael, friends from Geelong, referred me to Russian 1:50,000 maps which cover the whole of Latvia and which are available through the Internet. I have tried to access the maps without success and only have a copy of the eastern-most map which Michael downloaded and sent me. It is extremely detailed (the Russians are good at these things) and shows a number of foot-tracks in the vicinity of the border which will help us to start at Latvia's most eastern point. The western-most point will be a spot on the beach about 25 km south of Liepaja - Latvia's third largest city. If and when I reach that spot I will swim out into the Baltic Sea.

Food and water are critical matters and I am hoping that I will be able to buy a meal at least every couple of days and carry the basics to provide for breakfast, lunch and snacks. I never adjust well to Latvian food - I am more rigorously vegetarian when faced with the prospect of pork-related food. I avoided the suspiciously whitish-pink sausages offered at lunch yesterday, when I visited Anita and Lija at the camp they are attending in the country. Bread and cheese is safe but may not sustain me. I will carry a lot of nuts and dried fruit and hopefully will find something with eggs and chicken.

I have been drinking boiled water most of the time. I imagine that I will need to survive generally on bottled water - there does not appear to be any shortage and most small towns have a basis store. I will carry anti-diarrhoea medication but hope it doesn't strike as dehydration is always an added problem.

Tomorrow, I have my second anti-tick vaccination. I had the first injection the day after arrival in Latvia which heightened the risks if bitten. I have been very anxious every time I have gone into a forested area. The ticks can cause encephalitis and other conditions including Lyme's disease. The vaccination protects against encephalitis. Anita and Lija have had their second shots and we will need boosters within 12 months.

I have a mobile office/phone which will enable me to maintain this blog whilst on the move. Yesterday, I send my fist email from the phone after being finally connected to the Internet the day before. I am yet to work out how to post photographs on the blog, but perhaps that can be the next task. The geography classes at the Latvian School in Melbourne are going to be following my progress and this blog is part of my commitment to their teacher Peteris Darzins.

Otherwise, I hope to carry a fairly small pack with 3 or 4 litres of water, some food, spare clothes, toiletries and maps. And some books! I plan to walk up to 8 hours a day and with the long days there will be plenty of time for reading. Tim, my book supplier from Manchester in the UK sent over about 20 or so modern fiction. I am onto my sixth book (although my 46 hour marathon to get here got me through over 850 pages and nearly 2 books including Adam Thorpe's, No Telling).

I will wear my Scarpa walking boots. I have with me the two pairs I used on the Australian Alps Walking Track and the four times I have walked the Oxfam trail. Otherwise my walking gear will easily mark me out from the locals. I would prefer something more photogenic but that's the way it is.

I know from my previous walks that luck plays a big part in whether the goal is reached. On our first Oxfam walk we reached the last checkpoint (at about 90km which we had reached in 16 1/2 hours) to be told that snow and ice on Mt Donna Buang meant that we could not go on. The next year a total fire ban and the forecasted extreme heat meant that a section through the national park in the Dandenongs was cut out and the event was again reduced to 90 km.

Yesterday, walking in the forest at Tervete, I sprained my right ankle. It is an old problem which arises from time to time. I am sure it will recover and my walking boots will provide much better protection than the shoes I was wearing yesterday. But I am conscious than an illness or an accident could quite easily put my goal of walking across Latvia beyond me. I have about six weeks before the rogaining event, so there will be plenty of time. We will just have to see how it goes.

Why I am in Latvia

Last night I attended the closing concert of the 24th Latvian Song Festival. The concert was held in the open air stadium at Mezaparks (Forest Park), 8km from central Riga. About 15,000 singers and dancers took part, including my wife Anita who was part of the choir of about 13,000 voices.

The Song Festival was first held in 1873 and the next will be in 5 years time. Our older daughter, Jana, participated in the folk dancing - an amazing spectacle of thousands of dancers a few nights ago. The concert last night, however, provided the most comprehensive demonstration of what is inherent in being a Latvian.

I watched the concert with our younger daughter, Lija, and Anita's Latvian relatives, and many thousands of other Latvians. The concert was a mix of traditional folk songs and modern compositions, about 30 in all. The choir was conducted by different conductors - the oldest, in their 80s. The conductors, the living composers and lyricists were all honoured by the choir and the audience.

The Latvian national anthem was sung twice, as the second piece and at the end of the concert. The most popular piece, Martins Brauns' Saule, Perkons, Daugava, was repeated, mainly through the choir's enthusiastic response to their own performance and the appearance of the composer. I first heard the song in Melbourne in the early 90s and it has always been a favourite. Anita said she sang it again at about 4am during the after concert activities.

Lija and I left when the concert finished at about 1:15am. The trams were packed and we walked the 2 or so kms home. As we were leaving the after-concert singing began, with the audience joining in with the choir and the orchestra. Many stayed till it got light after 4am. Anita and our other house guests stayed later. When they did get home they continued singing till about 8am, fortunately in the cellar.

Anita's parents came to Australia in 1950. As descendants of Latvians, Anita and the two girls hold Latvian passports. They are very at home here. As for me, I am just along for the ride, and, I hope, the walk.

The Proposal

I am in Latvia until mid-September when I will compete in the 8th World Rogaining Championships in southern Estonia. To prepare for the rogaining event and to get to know the Latvian countryside better, I am planning a walk across Latvia from the border with Russia in the east to the Baltic Sea in the west.

As the crow flies, this is about 450 km; for the route I have chosen, it is closer to 700 km. I will carry a day pack and will need to find accommodation each night. Generally, Latvia is fairly closely settled and the walk will not take me far from civilization.

However, I have planned to walk on minor roads and forest tracks and this means that the options are limited unless I want to sleep out. There are also some places I want to visit - friends' houses where I will stay, and some of the more interesting natural and historical attractions.

I plan to start at Pasiene, close to the Russian border, on about 27 July. Hopefully, about 24 days later I will arrive at Liepaja, Latvia's third largest city and a port on the Baltic Sea. In later posts I will set out in more detail the preparations I have made and, more specifically, how I hope to achieve my goal.