Friday 15 August 2008

Day 18 - Jelgava to Dobele

29km (535km) - 6 hours 45 minutes - weather fine then overcast

Dobele is a fine little town. From a discussion I had yesterday, it seems that some people from Riga are looking for somewhere cheaper and less car-dominated to live. The places I have walked through over the last couple of days are still close enough to Riga to be attractive.
In the centre of Dobele (and next to my hotel) is the Lutheran church and extensive parkland around it. The church has the date 1495 on it but I am not sure that the present building is that old.

Down by the Berze River are the remains (now being restored) of a stone castle dating from 1730, although there was an earlier wooden castle in the 14th century.

Off-blog Juris and I have been having a debate about the dubious historical facts I sometimes give - usually though my statements are suitably qualified!
I usually take 2 or 3 hours after finishing walking before I think about venturing out. This evening, after an hour and a half of sight-seeing I feel exhausted again.
Tomorrow will be a late start as Janis is coming from Riga to walk with me. The walking should be better than today as it will generally be on minor roads.
I have had plenty of time to study the roadside rubbish. Most consists of plastic bottles, cigarette packets, lolly wrappers and only very occasionally bags of household rubbish. I do not get the impression that the current situation is any better or worse than in Australia. Though some particular rubbish crosses all national boundaries.
The only highlight today was when Ziedonis stopped on the roadside for a chat; he was on his way to his job near Liepaja. The bad news, he relayed, was that the road on the day after tomorrow will be worse than anything I have yet encountered. It is the main Riga-Liepaja road and carries large numbers of trucks from the port at Liepaja. There is really no option and it is only for one day - though an exceptionally long one.
Today was another day of counting down the km signs on the roadside. I was reminded of when I participated in the Red Cross Murray Marathon when I was at university. You had to paddle 400km from Yarrawonga to Swan Hill over 5 days, They were very long days - 11 or 12 hours and I would try and paddle as far as I could before I took a break. First, I would paddle for over 3 hours, but as the day progressed, the paddling time between breaks reduced to about 30 minutes.
On a day like today, the rest breaks are kept to a bare minimum. I took my pack off and had something to eat after 13km and then afte the next 12.
I think I am getting fitter and although very tired at the end of the day I am not in the state of perpetual exhaustion I was on the Australian Alps Walk. I didn't weigh myself before this trip but I would be surprised if I lost 7 kg like I did on the Alpine Walking Track.
We carried full packs (with all camping gear, a few days food and more clothes) and although averaging 18km each day, we walked for 8 or 9 hours and we ascended and then descended at least 1000m every day.
This trip is a significant challenge - to cover the distance from border to coastline it requires a mental and physical discipline to keep up the momentum of the walk. It is also, a somewhat 'grand' (or grandiose) concept to walk several hundred kms right across a country.
Anita reminded me that one of stimuli for the walk was a walk completed a few years ago by someone she met on a 3x3 camp in Latvia. He had walked the boundaries of Latvia - a very significant achievement as it can't be less than 2-3000kms.
'Walk across Latvia' or 'Walk around Latvia', I don't think they will catch on as popular activities, though I would hope the present walk has captured the 'popular imagination'.
The Australian Alps Walking Track is a significant test of endurance, and organising ability. Amongst serious walkers, it is a great achievement to complete the Alps Walk (and needs an incredible amount of luck with the weather).
I know therefore that the satisfaction I gain from this walk, if I keep going for another few days, will be a personal satisfaction and one difficult to expect others to share. What will remain though will be the memories of the many people who have given extraordinary support for my venture, both in its preparation and over the time I have been walking.
So tomorrow will be a relaxing stroll with Janis followed by some pleasant socialising with Nita and whoever else makes it down to Zebrus. And then the serious walking will begin.

2 comments:

Andis said...

Hi Graham,
When you first mooted the idea of traversing Latvija it seemed like an absolutely brilliant eco tourism idea but having travelled "virtually" with you maybe you are right and it won't catch on. Perhaps there are sections that could be used more so than others.
Both of us are still with you.

Andis & Rudite

Jana Anderson said...

dad,
it's a pleasure to keep updated with where you're at and it's keeping life in melbourne bearable. i'm getting a bit bogged down with uni and could do with a few discussions about upcoming assignments. a crim essay in particular is driving me mad (media plays a major role in how we view victims of crime, often to the detriment of the victim. Critically discuss in relation to either gender, age, race, or class). pity it's due next friday.
by the way, the house is fine and untrashed...for now. the vacuum cleaner works as well.
can you send me your email address? hamish and phelia came over the other day and i want to send you some photos we took of dougal. the trio left for new zealand today and can i say, hamish has settled into his new role as a father very well.
well we certainly are connected somehow dad, because i just received a message from you! there is something in the ether.
well, i've still got plenty of uni readings to get through so i better get back to it. good luck with janis today. please practice your latvian with him. maybe we can go back to being a single-lingual household.(don't stress, i'm kidding)
i miss you lots and lots.
much love,
janite x