Day 16 - Near Vecumnieki to Billites (near Iecava)

31km (478km) - 7 hours 30 minutes - weather overcast and later drizzly

The day didn't seem promising. I hadn't had a decent meal for nearly two days, the packet soup I made up for breakfast looked revolting so I tipped it out, and it was raining.
At Vecumnieki, I bought kefirs (a yoghurt drink), a carrot juice drink, a couple of pastries and bananas. Unfortunately, there wasn't a kafejnica open so I had to make do with snacking.
I walked through the cemetery next to the church. The bell was tolling and a couple of men were finishing off a new grave. Anna's relatives are buried there apparently. The cemetery had the usual large trees as cover and well maintained graves with fresh flowers everywhere.
Latvians must be very keen gardeners. Even the most modest house has a patch of planted colour. Many have extensive gardens with flowers, vegetables and berry bushes. There is also land set aside for allotments where flat dwellers can grow things. The casually, efficient beauty of the cottage gardens is something the professional landscape gardeners in Australia would struggle to emulate.
Perhaps I am just feeling nostalgic. My memories of growing up in Melbourne in the 1950s are often prompted by small things I have seen during the walk. I haven't seen nettles since I was in primary school (I certainly haven't been stung by them since then). The small shops (and the women who run them) remind me of the milk bars as they used to be. And so too the keen gardening.



A lot of road walking today though I found on the map a track that paralleled the road for 3km. It was magic to escape all vehicles and to walk on a track that was, at times, barely discernible as it crossed fields and passed through forests.




In Iecava, I walked along Edvarts Virza Street, which had a couple of fine houses.


I stopped for lunch in the town. One place looked a bit upmarket so I opted for what looked like a typical Latvian kafejnica.


I couldn't quite work out how you got served. I stood in the queue, but while I was waiting there was an altercation between two serving ladies, in Russian.
I wondered why I was waiting there for a genuine Latvian lunch, so I went back to the other place.

When the menu came, the food was described as 'Tex-Mex'. 'Mexican' is the one type of food I usually steer clear of, but time was slipping by...

I ordered char-grilled chicken with potatoes and vegetables. Words cannot describe the presentation. But the food itself was absolutely fantastic.



In the meantime, Ziedonis had dropped Anita and Lija at Billites. I missed seeing Ziedonis, but Anita and Lija walked out to meet me on the road. The weather had been threatening all day but it was only for the last 40 minutes I needed to put my jacket on.



Tonight, Anita and I will sleep in Edvards Virza's bedroom. I am writing this beside a table where original manuscript pages of his work are laid out. I hope his influence is reflected in my writing tonight.

I was very touched at the comment on the blog from Janis Balodis. Janis was Asst Director of the Melbourne Theatre Company in 1990 when Gunta and Didzis came to Australia. Because of Didzis' theatre connection we met with Janis and sat in on the rehearsal of a play (one of Alison Whyte's first). Janis' Ghosts trilogy was performed at MTC and by the STC and they are great plays. Anita had a small involvement with the second or third play, translating original correspondence.
The last play in the trilogy, perhaps reflects Janis' own reactions when visiting Latvia for the first time. I am sure it is due for a revival, though, Jani, I would be interested to hear about your recent work.
Soon after I arrived at Billites, (before I had even had a shower), I had my local media interviews - first Linda, and photographer, Agris, from Zemgales Zinas. And then Aina, Juris and photographer, Ivars, from Bauskas Dzive.
The interviews were in Latvian, though fortunately Anita was there to help translate, and to be interviewed herself. The television crew from Panorama (equivalent of the 7:30 Report) did not arrive as the developments in Georgia took priority.
Tonight I must plan the remaining days of the walk, particularly the accommodation. Hopefully the walk can be completed in the next 8 days. I know I will soon get the scent for home. Though, particularly last night, I could feel a flat spot coming on and seeing Anita and Lija tonight is a tremendous boost.